Everyone needs a go-to cookie, and this is mine. It takes everything good about a chocolate chip cookie and multiplies it: The butter is salted, the milk is malted, the butter is browned, and they somehow manage to be both perfectly chewy and crispy. I know I’m calling these chocolate chip cookies but-brace yourself-I think chocolate chip cookies are even better WITHOUT the chocolate chips. (And don’t tell me that makes it a sugar cookie-sugar cookies are basic and sweet, and the base of a chocolate chip cookie is rich, buttery, and complex.) For me, the chocolate gets in the way. I know many people out there will passionately disagree with me, and I’m not one to tell you what to do, so consider this a choose-your- own-chocolate adventure.

Makes about 4 dozen cookies

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup (2 sticks) salted butter
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 3/4 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 1/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 large eggs, at room temperature
  • 1/2 cup malted milk powder
  • 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
  • Up to 12 ounces semisweet or milk chocolate chips (optional)
  • Flaky salt

Directions:

  1. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat, then cook, stirring continuously, just until brown bits appear at the bottom and the butter smells nutty and fragrant, about 7 minutes. Immediately transfer the butter to a small heatproof bowl, being sure to scrape out all the browned milk solids from the pan. Let cool for about 10 minutes.
  2. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour and baking soda. In a large bowl, whisk together the brown sugar, granulated sugar, and cooled brown butter until well combined. Add the eggs and whisk until smooth. Add the malted milk powder and vanilla and whisk again. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and stir with a spatula to combine-don’t overmix. Fold in as many chocolate chips as your heart desires, or skip them. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.
  3. When you’re ready to bake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
  4. Scoop 1-tablespoon portions of the dough onto the prepared baking sheet, leaving at least 2 inches between each. Sprinkle each cookie with a little flaky salt. (At this point, you can freeze the balls of dough on the baking sheet until solid, then transfer them to a resealable plastic bag and store in the freezer for up to 3 months. When the craving strikes, bake them straight from frozen, adding a minute or two to the baking time.)
  5. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until the edges are golden brown. Remove from the oven. For a softer cookie, let them rest on the baking sheet for 3 minutes before transferring to a wire rack; for a crispier cookie, let them rest for 10 minutes. Either way, let them cool completely on the rack before eating, about 1 hour. Store the cookies in an airtight container at room temperature for up to a few days.

Hot Tip: The transition from melted butter to browned butter happens quickly. and same from browned to burnt. Use a pan that’s lighter in color, like stainless steel, so you can easily see the brown bits as they form.